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Malaga is a city that dates back thousands of years and, although much has been destroyed over the years, it still retains a number of historical churches and monuments from the periods of Roman and Arab occupation.
Not noted for its museums the city nonetheless has a number of worthwhile collections. Meanwhile you can venture along the Costa to several out-of-town attractions that might keep you away from the beach for a while at least.
The Malaga Card offers free entry to museums and other main attractions, and discounts in many shops and restaurants, as well as free public transport. The card is available from tourist offices. Cost: 24 hours: EUR30 / 48 hours: EUR46.
A vestige of Malaga's Moorish past, the Alcazaba dates from the 11th century and formed Malaga's defences before being superseded by the Gibralfaro further up the hill.
What was once the Governor's Palace is now the city's archaeological museum with exhibits dating back as far as the time of the Phoenicians. The maze of stairs and terraces that comprise the fortress are now home to Mediterranean flora and exploring the ancient fortifications is a great way to while away an afternoon. Nearby is the Roman theatre, also worth exploring if time allows.
Calle Alcazabilla Malaga. Open: Tue-Sun 09h30-18h00. Admission: EUR1.90. Tel: +34 95-221-6005.
Connected by a path along the ridge to the Alcazaba fortress, the younger Gibralfaro castle commands a fabulous position high above the city.
According to the Moorish chronicles the site was once used as a lighthouse (hence the name, "lighthouse hill"), but in the 14th century it became the site of the defensive fortress which protected the city. Nowadays it contains a small military museum, but people come here mainly for the magnificent views across Malaga, particularly of the port and down into the bullring.
It is possible to walk up the hill to the castle and then walk down to the Alcazaba, but the walk out of the town isn't the most pleasant. It is better to catch the hourly bus (number 35) from the cathedral to the castle, and from there walk down the path to the Alcazaba.
Cerro de Gibralfaro. Open: 09h30-18h00. Admission: EUR1.90.
Begun in the 16th century Malaga's cathedral is a rich mixture of styles from various periods. Initial construction of the grand building took over two centuries to complete, and the cathedral is still being added to today. The result is a selection of features drawn from several epochs in the art of church building. The choir stalls in particular are considered among the finest in Spain and it is well worth exploring the interior.
Called "La Manquita", which translates to "the one-armed", the cathedral is actually known locally for something missing from its construction rather than something it contains - namely a missing tower. A twin of the existing tower was originally planned, but the money for the building of it was allegedly donated to the fight against the British in the American War of Independence.
Calle Molina Larios. Open: 10h00-18h00 (Mon-Fri); 10h00-17h00 (Sat). Admission: EUR3. Tel: +34 95-221-5917.
Just as the cathedral reflects several different epochs of architecture, so Malaga's varied history has resulted in an eclectic mix of architectural styles around th city in general, and a short walk around the older parts of the town will be well rewarded with many fabulous examples of styles ranging from Moorish to the baroque.
The Episcopal Palace, on the Plaza del Obispo, is considered one of the finest buildings in the city and, despite being a lot younger architecturally speaking, it is a perfect foil to the cathedral. The building often houses various exhibitions of art as well, so it is worth checking what's on when you visit.
Other architectural highlights can be seen down the Calle Granada, where you can see Arabic Malaga, and make sure you take time to visit the town's churches, notably the Iglesia de Santiago, where Picasso was baptised.
If you have even a passing interest in the works of Picasso then the recently-opened Picasso Museum Malaga is an absolute must. After eight years in the planning, the artist's dream of a museum in his native city was finally realised in the beautifully restored 16th-century Palacio de los Condes de Buenavista. The museum houses a permanent collection covering the various styles and techniques that span the artist's 76-year career and a frequently changing temporary exhibition. Almost all of the museum's 200 pieces which include sketches, sculptures and paintings have been donated by Christine-Ruiz Picasso and Picasso's grandson Bernard.
Museo Picasso Málaga. Palacio de Buenavista, Calle San Agustin 8. Open: Tue-Sun 10h00-20h00 (Fri/Sat until 21h00). Admission: EUR6, adults; EUR3, concessions. Tel: +34 95-260-2731.
The artist's birthplace has also been turned into a museum, the Picasso Foundation, which, though les impressive than the Museo Picasso, nonetheless houses a variety of artworks and warrants a visit if you are a Picasso fan. Besides some by the master himself there are various canvases by artists who were inspired and influenced by him.
Fundación Picasso. Plaza de la Merced. Open: Mon-Sat 10h00-20h00; Sun 10h00-14h00. Admission: EUR1, adults; free for children. Tel: +34 95-206-0215.
Thought to have been inhabited as long as 25,000 years ago, these caves were discovered in 1959 by a group of young boys. Archaeological investigations revealed remains and artefacts of the early inhabitants. Cave paintings from various periods can still be seen.
As well as this anthropological interest some of the world's largest subterranean rock features can be found in the "halls" that make up the complex. The "Hall of Cataclysm" contains the most impressive structure - a 32m-high pillar formed by the joining of a stalactite and a stalagmite.
During the Summer Festival, concerts are held in the Sala de la Cascada, taking advantage of the natural acoustics of the ready-made auditorium. Buses leave Malaga from Muelle de Heredia hourly, costing EUR3.
Carretera de Maro, Nerja. Open: daily 10h00-14h00 & 16h00-18h30 (Jul/Aug until 20h00). Admission: EUR6, adults; EUR2.50, children (6-12yrs). Tel: +34 95-252-9520.
Just along the coast from Malaga the small resort of Benalmádena occupies one of the most beautiful stretches of the Costa. The highlands here come closer to the sea than almost anywhere else on the coast, meaning that here you can enjoy several types of terrain without venturing too far away.
The cable car ride from Arroyo de la Miel opened in 2000 and has proved a big hit with tourists. The trip takes you up to the top of Monte Calamorro, and at 770m above sea level, the views range for miles. From the top there are plenty of hiking trails that open up the mountain to exploration - some of which can be quite strenuous. If that sounds like a bit too much effort simply enjoy the view and take some refreshment in the bar before heading back down.
Explanada Tivoli Benalmadena. Open: daily 10h00-18h00. Return ticket: EUR11. Tel: +34 902-190-482 .
It's worth switching beaches regularly if only to break up the monotony of sun worship for a while.
The most popular beaches are to be found at Marbella, Fuengirola, Benalmádena and Torremolinos to the west of Malaga and Nerja to the east. A variety of watersports can normally be found on each. Smaller resorts exist with less crowded beaches, but also fewer facilities.
An area that has had over 40 years of intense tourism has very few secrets left, but one which the Malagueńos try to keep to themselves is the protected Natural Park of Los Montes. The nice thing is that most people only seem to remember it's there on weekends, when they arrive in droves to eat the barbecued sausage and ribs sold at the roadside inns. Go midweek and you'll have it almost to yourself. The flora and fauna are rich and the food alone is worth the journey.
Hiring a car is by far the best way to get to Los Montes, offering the twin benefits of comfort and flexibility. There is also a bus service to the area run by the Casado company (Tel: +34 95-231-5908). The trip takes you up the C-345 from Malaga, away from the parched coast into the cool pine forest.
Bullfighting is a controversial issue to many non-Spanish people but the event has a special place in the culture of the country. Malaga's bullring incorporates a small museum, which is probably worth a visit no matter what your personal views on the "sport" itself. Understanding the underlying traditions and culture of the bullring might help to understand the event itself more objectively.
Museo Taurino. Paseo de Reding. Tel: +34 95-222-6292.